Wharariki Beach, New Zealand


One of the best ever beaches for exploring that I’ve found anywhere. Wharariki Beach is near the far northwest point of New Zealand’s South Island. After driving 153 Km winding miles from Nelson, over the Takaka Hills, and further along the coast of Golden Bay, you eventually run out of paved road. Carry on for at least 6 more Kilometers of gravel road, past the turn off for Cape Farewell, and you’ll arrive at the parking area. Now its a 20-30 minute hilly hike through sheep country, back dune forests and then deep sand.

And it is worth it. Wharariki Beach is totally undeveloped. There are 4 Archway Islands barely offshore from this extensive beach. Just a few sunbathers/swimmers, and all forms of coastal exploration available from caves and arches, through fascinating conglomerate rock layers, to baby (and adult) seals, not to mention pure white sand dunes, and native forest on the back dunes. The wind blows in from the Tasman Sea which means no bugs. The place is brilliant.

Archway Islands

The south end of the beach is a maze of arches and caves. You have to be careful when the tide is coming in, like here.
These 2 Islands are the stars of the Beach. Massive with arches as well. I couldn’t stop from taking pics.
The shoreline rocks are pitted with some large caves. Cool refuges on a hot day.
When we were there, the largest cave was being used by a ballroom dancing group. Perhaps an incongruous site for the activity, but they were enjoying their Sunday far from the crowds.
The dunes are pure white and towering.
Local seal. Long lens kept me far enough away to be non-intrusive.
Large shoreline Arch. Had to do the limbo through a smaller arch on the extreme right to get beyond to rock pools. (Watercolor treatment via Topaz Studio.)
The wind doesn’t stop often here. These back dune trees show some effects of that.
Walking back was hot and steep. in some parts the trees shaded the trail.
Then open trail across the Department of Conservation-run Puponga farm. The terrain is dramatic.

Dragon Boats Wellington NZ

We were in Wellington NZ Feb 23 this year and wandered down to the harbour. Luckily the Dragon Boat Festival Fun Day was in action. Wellingtonians have a harbour they can use, at least when the wind isn’t howling. One thing I like about New Zealand, among many, is the widespread participation in sport. In the pictures you will see you and old, male and female, pounding across the harbour in their dragon boats.

The person at the front is the drum, the back person is the sweep or oarsman. There are typically twenty paddlers. Never really watched before.


At the end of the road. Old Gold Mining Town that lives again. Very well done. Using original buildings and authentic recreations. A must-see in British Columbia.

Main Street
Mass Transit
Anglican Church

Dentist Lying

Log home
Ornate Safe in the Assay Office

Vivian, South Dakota

Vivian is a small town, like Belvidere, on the South Dakota plains. We diverted there in September largely because Vivian is my wife’s name. The town, like almost all smaller places, is clearly suffering from rural depopulation. Services have been captured by larger places and concentrated there. Once a place loses its school, post office, active grain elevator, church, and store…then it has lost most of the structural components of community. The inhabitants must struggle uphill to keep there sense of place, of home. The town becomes just a collection of houses.
Vivian is clearly struggling. There are positive signs, flowers in the streets, a tiny museum, a newish cafe. But still most of the few active commercial enterprises are outside of town on the local county highway. Hopefully, the home of the Bearcats continues to be a vibrant community.
Unused tracks at the end of the main street
Once the Fire Department..
weekday afternoon

Belvidere, South Dakota

Defunct store Belvidere SD HDR 1898 -2Junk cars Belvidere SD 1916-2Workshop tree Belvidere SD HDR 1902 -2Meat Market Belvidere SD clarity 1900Stream lined trailer Belvidere SD 1919-2Collapsing House Belvidere SD 1915-2Upstairs window 1915DSC_1922On our 16,000+ Kilometer (10,000 miles) trip this summer, we came back through South Dakota. Like almost all rural places, the tiny towns of the Dakota plains have been hit hard through the years. Their purpose long taken over by a few bigger towns or cities. I have an affinity for these sad places. Belvidere is only one. I don’t choose it to make light; it is merely one of the many we visited. There is an archeology of hope and dreams and Belvidere is rich in the artifacts of lost community life.

Some Mushrooms and Lichens of the Northern Boreal Forest

The variety of these life forms in the Yukon and Northern British Columbia Forests was eye opening. I’m neither an expert, nor a collector. I just love wandering in the bush staring down at my feet. Later I try to research what I’ve seen. Some are extremely interesting. The orange lichen with the little black dots was about 1/3 hand size. Above that the yellow and green  colours of the lichen were eye-opening. The pink dots are called fairy barf! Really! I call the big white one a bottle cap mushroom, and the lower red ones are obviously boob mushrooms (although I think they are Mycena haemoptus). On a slightly related salacious theme, the small mossy picture shows numerous little erect mushrooms….thousands of them.

This was early to mid September. Early autumn. Ran across a couple looking for ‘shrooms, ie. psilocybin or psychedelic mushrooms. I have no idea if I saw any or not. I think they thought I was lying.

The Northern Rockies’ Route

Snow covered mountain II

Mid September first snow

Toad River

Toad River

Folded Mountain

Folding from mountain building


Muncho Lake

Muncho Lake

entering more mountains 1103

Beautiful drive…just amazing

Northern Lights

Northern Lights at Liard Hot Springs. Not a good pic cause it was handheld, and I was freezing. See, I got out of bed around 1 AM and looked outside. Then I ran outside wearing, well, very little. Not awake enough to grab tripod and other necessaries.  Stayed outside 20 minutes, shivering but totally into those Lights. You can never see them often enough.

In northern British Columbia, the Alaska Highway is route 97. It traverses the Northern Rockies which are, almost entirely, true wilderness.Wildlife everywhere..we saw Dahl’s sheep, caribou, bear, bison and mule deer. One of the most amazing roadtrips in the world. The Rockies section starts at Watson Lake, Yukon and ends at Fort Nelson, BC.




Keno..Just About the End of the Road

Keno Road near Elsa

Best part of the 44 Km dirt road to Keno. Mining trucks have chewed up the major part of the road.

Wind river Valley

Looking north east across the valley en route.

hammered metal building

This facade appears to be metal (possibly gas cans), flattened and painted.


Don’t get your hopes up…

No Gas here

Hasn’t been gas for years

Back streets of Keno


Three locals

Keno Locals


Logs and cabin

Who you gonna call?
Keno Hill was once a major hub for silver mining. Located 44 km from Mayo on a dirt road, it has a year round population of around 12. There once were ancillary mines around in the hills, with people living at them…like Wernecke, Calumet, and Elsa. All merely names on the map now. They were all communities, and Keno was the center. Now Keno has a really good Museum, a couple of cafes (possibly seasonal) and a hotel bar. Grocery shopping is in Mayo, where there is a general store/grocery. And a cardlock gas station.Nearest town is Dawson way to the north, and nearest city is Whitehorse way to the south. It doesn’t get much more remote than Keno.
Yeah, Keno was named after the gambling game. 

Pioneer Cemetery at Mayo, Yukon

Mayo Cemetery general BW 0259Marie Beaupre 0268Garnet Fitzwilliam Baimster BW 0263Bare Board Mayo Pioneer Cem BW 0262Robert Hall BW 0261Albert Grant BW0264Mayo was once a red hot mining town. Been on a roller coaster since the early 1900’s. To get there you drive up the Klondike Highway and turn off at the Stewart river. Not very central to anything. These graves are in the old Pioneer Cemetery in Mayo. They sit together forever in a small grove.

Traveling in the Yukon Territory



This gouge out of the mountain dominates Dawson.

Permafrost effect on old buildings

If you don’t raise your foundation on blocks, then this happens over time.


Sternwheelers were the main transportation mode for most of a century. This is for tourists now


Dirt streets. And a zany collection of period buildings and modern buildings built in period style.


A dream realized. We roadtreked to the Yukon. Visited many historical sites like Dawson City, Mayo, Keno Hill, and the spectacular country between these far flung places. The photos here are of Dawson, home of the Klondike Gold Rush. A suitable town at the end of the road. At least, the Klondike Highway. If you are up for it, and your vehicle is up for it, there is the Dempster Highway which now extends north to the Beaufort Sea at Tuktoyaktuk.  We didn’t go. So our vehicle can’t boast a muddy coating of Tuk Muk. Even so, we found lively scenes in Dawson and Whitehorse. Yukon is energizing.